Category Archives: Adventures Around the World

Street Food – Iceland Edition

I started this blog to chronicle my travels and my passion (eating) as a way of learning about other cultures. The food that local people eat is very telling of the history, geography and character of a city/country. Iceland, while so gorgeous with its  waterfalls and glaciers, is a big challenge when in comes to food production. Its frigid condition does not make it conducive to growing and raising veggies/livestock for consumption. What they have, though, is  all the bounty that seas have to offer.

I will start with this because I feel like should be receiving an award for having eaten this. My dedication to food knows no bounds. Exhibit A.

Hakari aka fermented shark

Hakari is made from the meat of a Greenland shark, which is naturally full of noxious chemicals, similar to antifreeze, so that it can survive in the cold depths of the ocean. Are you kinda throwing up yet? Here’s more…The shark is caught, and then cut up and literally allowed to rot for approximately 6 months. AND I ATE IT. They were not kidding about the strong chemical smell. Locals recommend that this is eaten with Icelandic vodka. I actually brought some home so I can pair it with the Russian vodkas that i prefer. Where’s my award?

Harðfiskur

Harðfiskur or dried fish is a traditional Icelandic food often served at the start of a meal along with bread, butter, and other meats, similar to a charcuterie plate. This preserved fish preparation, usually made of cod, haddock, or catfish, is thought to have originated from the Vikings as they required foods that would keep for months at sea. While there are other cultures that preserve their fish, there is nothing quite like fish from the clean Icelandic waters dried in their fresh air. For my Bisaya friends, this is similar to our very own “bulad”, but not as salty. Of course, I bought some to take home and i had it with breakfast porridge(arroz caldo). Amazing.

Skyr

For breakfast, as a snack, in a sauce at dinner, skyr is everywhere in Iceland. Made with fat free milk and a culture, skyr looks and taste like yogurt, but is actually a cheese. It is tangy like Greek yogurt, but much creamier. Good news, I found one in Trader Joe’s and tried it last night and it was good!

A true Viking Treat — lamb meat carpaccio, liver sausage, and ram’s testicles.

Yes, you read that right. RAM’S TESTICLES.  The lamb carpaccio is twice-smoked (with dried sheep dung — yup, not a typo—dung). The liver sausage is the most pedestrian here, I’ve tasted similar ones in Germany. The ram’s testicles…oh boy. The testicles are pressed onto blocks, boiled the cured in whey. The end result is a sour, spongy meat that surprisingly goes well with beer. This is sold in many grocery stores. This is a pack I found in the airport which i, of course, brought home. Have I written about my many mis(adventures) in bringing meats to the US? I really hope no one from customs is reading this.

Hot Spring Rye Bread

Let’s move on to something not so disgusting. It’s a dark bread with a very particular taste, that’s slightly sweet. To bake  this bread is to put the dough into special wooden casks in the ground close to a hot spring and pick it up the next day. Absolutely delicious!

Dala Cheeses

Búðardalur (west Iceland) specializes in the making of mold cheeses. The hard cheeses are made in the northern part. The dala cheeses are usually, brie, blues, camembert taste-alikes. I love how they are all over grocery stores. We had these for breakfast.

Lamb Soup

This, I can totally make. I can’t believe I never thought making this, considering how much I love lamb. It’s cooked they way one would with run-of-the-mill beef soup—carrots, potatoes, onions. Rich flavor and very comforting. We had this after the glacier hike.

Lava Cheese

Lava cheese is a crunchy cheese snack made from Icelandic cheddar, which is then dried, baked and seasoned. It is similar to the parmesan crisps you see in Whole Foods.

Lava Salt

I found this while wandering around the airport prior to departure. The black lava salt is an Icelandic geothermal flaky sea salt blended with activated charcoal. The activated charcoal is a natural detoxifier that has health benefits.

Last, but not the least …

Gellur (Cod tongues)

Don’t be fooled by the innocent appearance of this pasta dish. While you have the palate-friendly lobster and shrimp, it also contains tongues of a fish. Actually they’re a fleshy, triangular muscle behind and under the tongue, if that seems less disgusting. It really is good. It is best incorporated in a seafood dish such as this one. It brings a lot of “seafood flavor” and an interesting texture. No actually “street food”, we had this at a restaurant. Still worth the mention since we area on a roll here with weird foods.

I had to include this. Iceland has the best water. This is a bottle we got from our flight. Same quality as that come out of the tap. Beans wants this as Christmas gift. Seriously.

There you have it. My Icelandic street food experience. I hope you learned a thing or two, if not of their food and culture, then the fact that I will literally try anything, just for the taste of it. If you’ve read this far, I might as well tell you how an admin of a Facebook food group in Houston, shot one of these pics down. Her words—“I can’t have you post that. Why would Houston foodies want to know about Iceland anyway”. Uhm…because if you’re a foodie, you would be interested in what the rest of the world eats? And to that I click “leave group”. I can’t stand close-minded people. Thank God I can afford to have my own blog…

 

 

LAVA Restaurant – Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Before I expound on the bounty of the food this restaurant offers, let me just say that this place is absolutely gorgeous. It is set in the heart of the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa, that despite its very tourist-y vibe, remains one of the most breathtaking man-made places I’ve been to. The restaurant  is called Lava, because it is surrounded by, well…lava. It  has huge picture windows and in the second floor, you can sit (and freeze) by the balcony and enjoy this view.

No words. This was taken at sunrise.

On the main floor, the picture windows allow you to get a closer look of how amazing the milky, white water is against the dark lava rocks.

The water gets its bluish-white hue as reflection from the sky

As mentioned, we got here before the crack of dawn. The experience we had is well chronicled in my Facebook page. The Premium package we got offered a reservation to this wonderful restaurant so I booked one for lunch. I have read in many blogs that going to the lagoon after a long flight rejuvenates you. Nobody said anything about how it deals with hunger. After flying from H-town, watching movies and drinking the entire flight, then soaking up in the lagoon, we were famished!

We got started with several types of bread, including ICELANDIC DARK RYE BREAD (DÖKKT RÚGBRAUÐ), which is baked in geothermal rocks. Butter was softened and sprinkled with lava salt.
As appetizer – Birch and juniper cured arctic char, with Horseradish foam, cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, arctic char roe, rye bread

Arctic char is a cold-water fish in the Salmon family, more tender and flaky, found only in arctic and sub-arctic waters.

Langoustine soup

Langoustine is a Norwegian lobster – a lot smaller than the Maine lobsterbut flavor is very delicate. It is now dubbed as the new foie gras (per Bon Appetit—I have no idea why. All i know is that it is delicious).

Lamb fillet and shoulder of lamb
Artichokes, carrots, dates, thyme

Iceland boasts having the best lamb in the world. I would have to agree. This lamb was cooked medium-medium well and was absolutely tender without being chewy.

Cod with Cauliflower, barley, fennel, mussel sauce. This was D’s entree. The cod was super flaky and moist, the kind you get when the fish never visited the freezer.
Grilled beef tenderloin with Icelandic mushrooms, crispy potatoes, onion jam, dijon mustard

Beef is where Iceland, and in general, European beef, would lose out against American beef. It’s a matter of taste of course, but there is always that “stringy-ness” in this beef that one would never get from any USDA meat. Although if I’m really to rank beef, the real-deal Kobe beef would outrank (and out-price) any of these meats by a mile. But..that’s another post for another time…

Dessert – “Ástarpungar” & caramel — aka
Caramel chocolate mousse, vanilla ice cream, salted caramel
…and because we still have to travel to Reykjavik after being here, we needed these Nordic coffee to wake us up.
Here’s “us”

This is the best meal I had in this country. I had the pleasure of dining on other restaurants (which I shall be writing about soon), but this is special because it is soooo pretty. Haha. But it really is. If you happen to book a tour in Blue Lagoon, spring for this too.

LAVA Restaurant, Nordurljosavegur 9, 240 Grindavik, Iceland